The suggested height of the reference posts is: 2 Rail : 30 in. If the post is too high use a hammer and a block of wood to tap it deeper. If it is too low just pull it up to the correct height and put a little wet cement into the post itself to fill the small space under the post you have created.
The 16 ft. For a 4 rail fence do the same with the bottom rail. Then run the 16 ft. It is best to let the cement cure for 24 hours before setting the rails. If you are terminating at a gate post duct tape the end of each rail before inserting into post. Wipe off excess cement and glue on the caps with a PVC cement. Insert 2 lengths of 4 re-bar into each gate post and fill with wet concrete. Be certain that all gate hardware is mounted on the post before you fill it.
Wait 24 to 48 hours for the cement to cure before hanging the gate. Please click here for detailed gate installation instructions. The primary difference between the installation of Tuff-Stuff fence concerns the way the rail is locked into the post. The design is extremely important, as the wires provide the basis for strength, stability and security. Mesh openings should be small enough to prevent a horse from getting its hoof caught and stop it from climbing on the fence or stepping down on the line wires, which could result in collapse or structure failure.
Another important benefit of close spacing is deterring predators from entering a pasture or corral. Wire mesh fence is woven in a pattern of rectangular or triangular shapes that are too small to catch a hoof and are galvanized to stand up to the elements. It will also keep pets and small animals in or out of a pasture, feature good linear strength, and is flexible and easy to maintain.
While board fence is a popular option, wood causes concerns when it comes to maintenance and safety. Weather, insects, splinters and chewing all take their toll on fence. Woven mesh, on the other hand, provides reliable strength, longevity, protection from intruders, and easy maintenance.
Besides the cost of the fence, an installation requires posts, staples and other supplies, labor and tools. Wire horse fence is an affordable solution that provides years of durable, long-lasting security.
Red Brand has been the most recognized brand of farm fence since The wire knot hugs both vertical and horizontal wires tightly, so the fence will not sag or buckle. Constructed with 2" x 4" spacing between the vertical and horizontal wires, the small openings prevent hooves from getting caught.
The tight mesh also restricts horses from climbing up the fence and deters unwanted animals from entering the enclosure. Non-Climb is built to withstand weathering and everyday wear and tear. For even greater life expectancy, Non-Climb is available in Class 3 galvanization.
The tight wire mesh prevents injury from impact, as the fence will flex rather than break. Horses can't climb up or step through the openings, so hooves and legs are protected. And, the knots won't move, so predators can't push through the fence. Non-Climb Horse Fence can be used for a variety of species besides horses, including llama, donkeys, sheep, goats and dogs.
The flexible construction of Non-Climb fence makes it a good choice for rolling hills or uneven terrain. Non-Climb remains rigid and strong when facing pressure from animals in a pasture or corral, but gives enough to prevent injury or fence failure.
Our online store offers a wide variety of hard-to-find fence products, fence tools, and Red Brand gear. The vertical wires are securely wrapped around each horizontal cable, running diagonally to make a diamond, or 'v' pattern.
This mesh design creates the tightest weave possible. There are many types of effective horse fencing, but there is no "best" fence. Each fencing type has inherent tradeoffs in its features. A "perfect" fence should be highly visible to horses. Horses are far-sighted and look to the horizon as they scan their environment for danger. Therefore, even when fencing is relatively close, it needs to be substantial enough to be visible.
A fence should be secure enough to contain a horse that runs into it without causing injury or fence damage. A perfect fence should have some "give" to it to minimize injury upon impact. It should be high enough to discourage jumping and solid enough to discourage testing its strength.
It should have no openings that could trap a head or hoof. The perfect fence should not have sharp edges or projections that can injure a horse that is leaning, scratching, or falling into it. It should be inexpensive to install, easy to maintain, and last 20 years or more. And finally, it should look appealing. Unfortunately, no type of fence fits all the criteria for the perfect fence. Often there is a place for more than one type of fence on a horse facility.
Stable management objectives and price ultimately determine which fencing is chosen. Many new fence materials and hybrids of traditional and new materials are now available. Details of fence materials and construction may be found in other publications see Additional Resources.
Planning includes more than selecting a fence type. It is best to develop an overall plan where the aesthetics, chore efficiency, management practices, safety, and finances are considered. The best planning involves a layout drawn to scale that shows proposed gates, fence lines, where fences cross streams or other obstacles, irregular paths along a stream or obstacle, traffic routes for horses and handlers, routes for supplies and water, vehicle traffic routes, and access for mowing equipment.
All these should be in relation to buildings and other farmstead features. Select and install fencing that allows easy access to pastures and does not limit performance of stable chores. Gates should be easy to operate with only one hand so the other hand is free. Fencing should also allow easy movement of groups of horses from pasture to housing facilities. All-weather lanes should connect turnout areas to the stable. Lanes can be grassed or graveled depending on the type and amount of traffic that use them.
Make sure they are wide enough to allow passage of mowing equipment and vehicles. Vehicles such as cars, light trucks, and tractors can be up to 8 feet wide. Farm equipment needs to foot-wide lanes to comfortably negotiate. Narrower lane widths are acceptable for smaller tractors or mowing equipment. Remember to leave room for snow storage or removal along the sides of lanes and roads.
It is best to eliminate fence corners and dead-end areas when enclosing a pasture for more than one horse. By curving the corners, it is less likely that a dominant horse will trap a subordinate. Round corners are especially important for board fences and highly recommended for wire fences. Most wire fencing is installed with the wire under tension as part of the design strength of the fence.
This tension may be modest, just enough to keep the wire straight and evenly spaced throughout seasonal temperature changes in wire length, or may be quite substantial, as with high tensile wire fence. With tensioned fencing, rounded corners may not be as strong or durable as square ones. A slight outward tilt of support posts on curved corners can help resist the inward forces of the tensioned wire.
Position the tensioned wire on the outside of the fence post as it travels around the curve, then back to the inside horse side on the straight sections. It is possible to build square corners for tension fences and use boards to prevent horses from getting into the corner.
This creates areas that limit grazing, requiring regular mowing, but it is cheaper to construct than curved corners. Horse fences should be 54 to 60 inches above ground level. A good rule for paddocks and pastures is to have the top of the fence at wither height to ensure that horses will not flip over the fence.
Larger horses, stallions, or those adept at jumping may require even taller fences. At the bottom, an 8-inch clearance will leave enough room to avoid trapping a hoof yet will discourage a horse from reaching under the fence for grass. A bottom rail with clearance no higher than 12 inches will prevent foals from rolling under the fence. Fence clearance varies with fence types. Higher clearances allow small animals, such as dogs, to enter the pasture. Fences should be built with particular attention to fence post integrity.
Several fence material manufacturers provide good detailed guides to assist in construction and material selection. Fence openings should be either large enough to offer little chance of foot, leg, and head entrapment or so small that hooves cannot get through. Small, safe openings are less than 3-inches square, but can depend on the size of the horse. Tension fences, such as the types that use high-tensile wires, usually have diagonal cross-bracing on corner assemblies.
These diagonal wires or wood bracing provide triangular spaces for foot and head entrapment. Good fence design denies horse access to the braced area or at least minimizes hazards if entrapment occurs. Horses will test fence strength deliberately and casually.
Horses often reach through or over fences for attractions on the other side, thus, sturdy fences are essential. Fences that do not allow this behavior are the safest.
Keep open space between rails or strands to l2 inches or less. For electric fences, this open distance may be increased to 18 inches since horses avoid touching the fence. With most fence, and particularly with paddock and perimeter fence, a single strand of electric wire can be run 4 to 6 inches above or just inside the top rail to discourage horses who habitually lean, scratch, or reach over fences.
The fence should be smooth on the horse side to prevent injury. Fasten rails and wire mesh to the inside horse side of the posts. This also strengthens the fence. If a horse leans on the fence, its weight will not push out the fasteners.
Nails and other fasteners should be smooth without jagged parts that can cut the horse or catch a halter. Visible fences will prevent playful horses from accidentally running into them. A frightened horse may still hit a visible fence while he is blinded with fear. A forgiving fence that contains the horse without injury is better than an unyielding brick wall.
Wire fences are the least visible, so boards or strips of material are often added. The fence post is the foundation of the fence, so its importance cannot be overemphasized. The common element in virtually all successful horse fences is a wooden post. Setting posts represents the hardest work and the most time-consuming part of fence building and is absolutely the most critical to the long-term success of the fence.
Driven posts are more rigid and therefore recommended over hand-set posts or those set in predrilled holes. Driven posts are pounded into the ground through a combination of weight and impact by specialized equipment. The principle behind driven posts that makes them so secure is that the displaced soil is highly compacted around the post, resisting post movement.
Even for do-it-yourself projects, you should contract the job of driving posts. Post-driver equipment is nearly impossible to rent due to liability concerns. Our cost guide has been updated for to reflect current fair wages and material option costs for Horse Fencing. Enter your options and zip code above - then select "Update". Homewyse Cost Guides estimate approximate cost ranges for basic work in typical conditions.
The estimates should only be used for preliminary planning. Homewyse estimates are NOT substitutes for quotes from qualified vendors. Homewyse strongly recommends that you contact reputable professionals for an accurate assessment of work required and costs for your project - before making any decisions or commitments. We're an involved community that values your input.
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